Trattoria Da Burde, as Florentine as you get

trattoria burde, Florence

I had known about this place for years, heard so many good things, knew it was just the sort of place I would love. But somehow it took me years to get there — perhaps because of not being right in the centre of Florence (it’s in the neighbourhood of Peretola, very close to the airport) and having opening hours that aren’t always easy to fit in with (they’re only open for lunch during the week and Friday nights for dinner). But now that I’ve finally been and confirmed every suspicion that it’s one of the best trattorie in town, I can’t wait to find any other excuse to get there again.

Da Burde has history written all over it — from the tiled walls in the front room (which also serves as a bar and a shop!), where you can just sit and read the paper, to the antique decorations in the main dining room and the historic panelling that was installed along the walls in one of the side dining rooms.

It’s been in the family since 1901 and now brothers Paolo and Andrea Gori and their uncle Giuliano Gori, run the place — Paolo in the kitchen, and Andrea on the floor and the wine cellar. For those who don’t already know him, Andrea is a sommelier and one of the most affluent figures in the wine world — during quieter hours you can find him attached to his laptop, where he writes his blog, Vino da BurdeIntravino and others (he also wrote the AIS Sommelier manual). So you can rest assured that you’re in for a treat with the wine list here.

Burdetrattoria da burdedessert table

In the kitchen, the food is strictly classic Tuscan fare, done properly and seasonally. Things like ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, carabaccia (onion soup), pasta e fagioli, zuppa di farro, baccala’ alla fiorentina, bollito misto, polpettone (meat loaf), peposo and francesina (re-cooked boiled meats with onion) and their most famous dish – bistecca alla fiorentina – with all the usual trimmings (stewed cannellini beans, roast potatoes, the most delicious twice-cooked greens).

The dessert table is laid out with an array of delightful things, such as crostata, the trifle-like zuppa inglese, wobbly creme caramel, and depending on the season, you might find castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake) and schiacciata all’uva or simply some fresh fruit.

the bistecca alla fiorentina at Burde

It’s the sort of place to come for a real celebration of Florentine classics and to possibly come with a group of friends so you can taste more things without getting too full too quickly. Either that or just make sure to come on an empty stomach so you can try it all, from antipasto of sliced cured meats, to a soup to the bistecca (if going all out is your motive). Save space for something from the dessert table, or even a little vin santo with some cantuccini.

burde-IMG_4620

After a delicious bowl of creamy farro soup, we opted for fegatelli (roasted pork liver) and peposo (above), a Renaissance dish of beef stewed with red wine, garlic and lots of pepper. It came in its own little pan, lid slightly askew, revealing gorgeous, meltingly-soft chunks of beef on a bed of the best twice-cooked greens I have ever ordered. I did eye off jealously the impressive bistecca at the next table though — that’s for my next visit.

Dessert table at Burdecrostata di fragola

Dessert was this fresh strawberry and gooey custard crostata and zuppa inglese, classics that taste just like this homely style of cooking should — but better.

For some other articles on where to eat in Florence, see this post about Florentine food; this post about having brunch at Cibreo’s Teatro del Sale and these favourite spots on the oltrarno side of Florence.

Incidentally, Paolo and Andrea will be taking over the osteria of Eataly a few steps from the duomo in the centre of Florence next month and they’ll be cooking from my cookbook for a one night only event on 23 June 2016! See my events page for the details.

Trattoria da Burde
Via Pistoiese 6r
Florence
Tel. 055 317206

Bookings can be made by phone or online.

This blog post was not sponsored. The views here are all my own.

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